Quirks – Keys Voices | The Florida Keys & Key West Blog https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices Wed, 25 Jan 2023 19:28:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 Keys’ Heritage Takes Center Stage in PBS Documentary and Eclectic Events https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/keys-heritage-takes-center-stage-in-pbs-documentary-and-eclectic-events/ Wed, 25 Jan 2023 15:50:51 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23751

Whether you’re pining for a Keys vacation but can’t get away quite yet, or are prepping for an upcoming trip to the island chain, you’ll want to watch “The Florida Keys: 200 Years of Paradise,” slated to debut this spring on Public Broadcasting Service channels across the U.S.

Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad

The Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, completed in 1912, carried passengers from mainland Florida throughout the Keys to Key West.

The fascinating 60-minute TV documentary explores the culture and history of the Keys from the early 1800s to the present. It was produced by South Florida PBS for broadcast during the island chain’s bicentennial year — this year — that commemorates the Florida Legislature’s establishment of Monroe County on July 3, 1823.

The program (partially underwritten by the Keys tourism council) takes you on a journey through the region’s dramatic history, seen through the eyes of residents who live and interpret that history every day.

Topics include the Florida Keys’ booms and busts, cultural and artistic expression, sport fishing and community leaders, industries like shipwreck salvage, natural disasters and renewal, environmental conservation and the legacy of Black pioneers.

treasure room Diving Museum Islamorada

The story of Art “Silver Bar” McKee is told in a fascinating exhibit at Islamorada’s History of Diving Museum.

Comments from Keys historians and others introduce viewers to the human side of the island chain’s two centuries of history — giving the story a deeply personal flavor.

“The Florida Keys: 200 Years of Paradise” is to be distributed nationally by American Public Television beginning March 1, and it’s expected to air on some 249 public television stations around the country. So check your local listings for scheduled airtimes to make sure you don’t miss it.

Meanwhile, three events are slated in Key West that showcase different elements of the Keys’ intriguing two-century cultural heritage.

Presidents in Paradise. Descendants of former president Harry S. Truman and five other U.S. commanders in chief will discuss their famous relatives and American bipartisanship Saturday, Feb. 18, at Key West’s Harry S. Truman Little White House.

The Presidential Family Forum is the centerpiece of Presidents Day weekend activities at the 111 Front St. residence — the place where Truman spent 11 working vacations during his 1945-1953 administration. Today the property is Florida’s only presidential museum.

Clifton Truman Daniel portraying President Truman

Actor Clifton Truman Daniel portrays his grandfather, President Harry S. Truman, in the stage production “Give ‘Em Hell, Harry!” in Key West.  The one-man show is a highlight of Presidents Day weekend activities at the Harry S. Truman Little White House. (Photo by Carol Tedesco, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In addition, Clifton Truman Daniel (former President Truman’s oldest grandson) will star as his grandfather in the one-man play “Give ‘Em Hell, Harry!” Sunday and Monday, Feb. 19-20. A seasoned actor and author, Clifton is the first direct descendant to portray a presidential ancestor in a stage production — and this one is absolutely unforgettable.

A Conch-Centric Celebration. Join several dozen other people and attempt to “blow your own horn” in Key West Saturday, March 4, during a celebration of the Florida Keys’ rich history known as the Conch Shell Blowing Contest.

In the 19th century, when Key West’s economy was largely based on salvaging cargoes from sinking ships, seafarers used the conch’s fluted pink-lined shells as signaling devices — blowing piercing blasts to attract attention. Today native-born residents refer to themselves as Conchs and the Florida Keys island chain is often called the Conch Republic.

The “conch honk” challenge is presented each spring by the Old Island Restoration Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the architectural and cultural heritage of Key West. In the lush garden of the island’s Oldest House Museum, 322 Duval St., entrants vie to see who can coax the most impressive sounds from their “instrument.”

Conch Shell Blowing gropu in Key West

Kids and adults competing in a previous Conch Shell Blowing Contest gather for a “group toot” in Key West. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Remembering Tennessee. Internationally renowned playwright Tennessee Williams, who lived in Key West for more than 30 years, once said of his chosen home, “I work everywhere, but I work best here.” Explore his writing and life in the island city during the Tennessee Williams Birthday Celebration, with events scheduled throughout March.

Expected highlights include guided curator tours of the Tennessee Williams Museum, located at 513 Truman Ave. Birthday month activities also include screenings of films based on Williams’ plays, a walking tour of the playwright’s Key West, a lecture and readings, a theater production and a commemoration of the 112th anniversary of Williams’ March 26 birth.

What else is going on in Key West and the Keys over the next few months? Just check here — and then catch the PBS documentary and begin planning your next visit.

]]>
Underwater Pumpkin Carving and an Unforgettable Shipwreck https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/underwater-pumpkin-carving-and-an-unforgettable-shipwreck/ Wed, 26 Oct 2022 15:00:08 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23542

The continental United States’ only contiguous living coral barrier reef, which parallels the Florida Keys, hosts huge populations of tropical fish and other creatures. Purple gorgonians, giant boulder corals, elegant finger corals, colorful shrimp, shy and skittish lobsters, bashful nurse sharks and rays provide an incomparable display of undersea life to divers and snorkelers.

divers in Underwater Pumpkin Carving Key Largo

Sophie Costa (left) and Allison Candelmo display their completed entry in a previous Underwater Pumpkin Carving Contest. (Photo by Frazier Nivens, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Keys reef is easy to get to and easy to navigate, while the warm clear water makes a long dive comfortable and enjoyable.

Around Halloween, however, the region’s underwater beauty goes hand in hand with offbeat fun.

That’s because Halloween in the Keys brings a popular yet unusual event: the Underwater Pumpkin Carving Contest (yes, involving actual pumpkins) in Key Largo waters. (Key Largo, by the way, is the northernmost part of the island chain and is renowned as the Dive Capital of the World.)

Set for Saturday, Oct. 29, the contest is now in its 24th year and features intrepid “artists” descending approximately 25 feet beneath the surface. Their task: transform orange pumpkins into masterful sculptures incorporating frightening facial features, playful denizens of the sea or traditional toothy grins.

As well as design challenges, participants must contend with two other elements. First, hollow pumpkins are naturally buoyant. In other words, they tend to float — which means subsea sculptors must work with a potentially moving target AND keep it from drifting away.

Second, as seasoned pumpkin carvers know, hollowing out the gourds’ interior reveals seeds and stringy “guts.” These float too, and often attract quick-swimming reef fish that move in for a closer look and a nibble on the intriguing tidbits — so dodging finned “spectators” becomes part of the artistic process.

Underwater Pumpkin Carving Key Largo

Divers finish paring their Halloween creations in a recent Underwater Pumpkin Carving Contest held in Key Largo waters. (Photo by Mike Papish, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Each year, however, the pumpkin carvers not only persevere but report having a great time — competing to craft the most innovative creations to win prizes and bragging rights.

Previous years’ pumpkin entries have featured everything from traditional triangle eyes and toothless grins to shark-mouthed sneers, dolphin silhouettes and many other sea creatures. One crafty past competitor even came up with a “fishy” skeleton.

Certified divers can join in the Oct. 29 competition with Amoray Dive Resort, located at mile marker 104.5 in Key Largo. The two-location dive includes tanks, weights and a pumpkin ready for carving. Reservations are an absolute MUST.

Once the carving is complete, the top pumpkin chosen by the experienced judges (who double as the crew of the Amoray Diver dive boat) earns its creator a complimentary dive trip for two.

If you’re an advanced- or wreck-certified diver, Key Largo waters also offer another one-of-a-kind underwater adventure: the chance to dive on the 510-foot U.S. Navy ship Spiegel Grove, the world’s third-largest ship ever intentionally sunk to become an artificial reef. The vessel has enthralled trained divers since June 2002, when the Key Largo community rallied to sink it as the backbone of a new reef ecosystem.

Lisa Mongelia swims between gun turrets of the Spiegel Grove, sunk in 2002 six miles off Key Largo to become an artificial reef. (Photo by Frazier Nivens, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Designed to carry cargo and craft for amphibious landings, the Spiegel Grove operated from 1956 until its decommissioning in 1989, and helped enforce America’s Cold War strategy by rushing troops and equipment to support friendly governments.

Today, the venerable vessel rests in 130 feet of water about six miles off Key Largo. Enveloped by delicate corals and invertebrates, the top deck is about 60 feet below the ocean’s surface.

The ship is so wide that, on many days, the view of the superstructure will fade into a green-blue abyss. On the clearest days, however, the sandy bottom is visible.

For wreck divers who intend to enter the upper deck areas of the Spiegel Grove (which were specially prepared to lessen the risk of such activity), knowledge and proof of certifications regarding diving in overhead environments is required.

Whether you’re coming to the Florida Keys to carve a pumpkin underwater, explore a unique reef ecosystem or embark upon an only-in-the-Keys shipwreck dive, you’ll find plenty of professional dive operators to help you immerse yourself in the underwater realm. For more information, just click here.

]]>
Florida Keys’ Conch Republic Celebrates Landmark 40th ‘Birthday’ https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/florida-keys-conch-republic-celebrates-landmark-40th-birthday/ Wed, 20 Apr 2022 15:46:05 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=22909

A lighthearted sea battle featuring tall ships and flying vegetables. A parade dubbed the world’s longest. A “drag” race for female impersonators wearing unnervingly high heels.

Conch Republic secession

Former Key West Mayor Dennis Wardlow (left) and other founders of the Conch Republic re-enact the historic secession ceremony on a past “birthday” of the irreverent republic. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

These offbeat events and many more are part of the 40th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration, held April 15-24 to commemorate the Florida Keys’ symbolic secession from the United States.

Yes, that’s right — secession.

The historic event took place April 23, 1982, prompted by a U.S. Border Patrol checkpoint that was set up without warning on the Florida Keys Overseas Highway (the only road into and out of the islands). Federal agents were supposedly searching cars for illegal drugs and other contraband — but their roadblock created a massive multi-mile traffic jam of vehicles leaving the Keys.

The Border Patrol’s action infuriated Florida Keys leaders, residents and departing visitors. After pleas to remove the roadblock were flatly denied by federal officials, a gutsy group led by Key West’s then-mayor, Dennis Wardlow, protested by staging the tongue-in-cheek “secession,” announcing the creation of the independent Conch Republic and raising its royal blue flag.

They then declared “war” on the mother country — a good-natured insurrection that involved pelting a hapless U.S. Navy officer with stale Cuban bread — promptly surrendered and demanded $1 billion in foreign aid.

Paul Menta hoists a Conch Republic flag to formally begin the 40th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

“We made the announcement that, if we’re going to be treated as a foreign country, then we will become a foreign country,” explained Dennis, who became the republic’s first prime minister.

The outrageous strategy worked, gaining worldwide attention and a surprising measure of respect. Even more important, the Border Patrol checkpoint vanished as suddenly as it had appeared.

And the fame of the Conch Republic, whose motto is “We Seceded Where Others Failed,” only increased over the years.

Today the republic is acclaimed around the world as the Florida Keys’ irreverent alter ego. Proud “patriots” fly the royal blue flag of the little “nation,” and mark its birthday each year with a roster of eccentric events.

On April 15 this year, Dennis Wardlow and other Conch Republic dignitaries took part in a waterfront ceremony at Mallory Square that began the 40th annual celebration.

Events included a flag raising, a recounting of the republic’s storied history and a performance of the brilliantly written Battle Hymn of the Conch Republic — with spectators joining in on rousing choruses of “Glory, Glory, Conch Republic.”

A lighthearted sea skirmish is part of the annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration festivities. (Photo provided by CRIC)

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Conch Republic never received the billion dollars in foreign aid that was requested after the 1982 secession (although some optimistic citizens are still waiting for it). But that hasn’t dampened the intrepid spirit of the republic, or lessened the recognition it continues to receive.

“It’s just been amazing that here we are, 40 years later, and it’s still going strong,” marveled Dennis. “And the government has not put up any border checkpoints, and they haven’t messed with us.”

The 2022 independence celebration continues through Sunday, April 24. Scheduled highlights include a pirates’ ball, a sailing race that recalls the Keys’ seafaring heritage, and an open-air bed race billed as “the most fun you can have in bed with your clothes on.”

While the 40th anniversary is an undisputed milestone, don’t fret if you can’t hop on a plane right now to join the festivities. Just know that, whenever you do arrive, you’ll be warmly welcomed in the Conch Republic.

]]>
Key West: Somewhere South of Normal https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/key-west-somewhere-south-of-normal/ Wed, 30 Mar 2022 14:35:57 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=22810

Lately new friends from the “real world” (loosely defined as everywhere outside Key West) have been asking me what the island city is REALLY like. After all, it’s been my beloved home for several decades, so they figure I must know.

Key West rooster

Key West’s local poultry population, like this majestic rooster, is a colorful, quirky part of the island’s unique vibe. Some years back, the wandering fowl even inspired their own feathered festival. (Photo by Rob O’Neal)

The first thing I tell them is simple: Key West is not normal.

In a normal city, locals don’t head for the nearest laundromat when they crave a great sandwich. They don’t drive around in cars painted like flamingoes or mobile coral reefs. They don’t wear tutus to lunch.

In fact, Key West is gloriously, outrageously abnormal — a place where wild chickens roam the streets and dogs are favored customers at more than one bar. A place where nobody thinks it’s strange to spot grown men dressed like Darth Vader or Marilyn Monroe (FYI, it’s possible to encounter them both on the same evening).

What else should visitors know about the island city?

BASKET HOUNDS ABOUND. Bicycles and scooters are favored modes of transportation through the streets of Old Town. And why not? Summer or winter, the breeze is likely to carry the spicy scent of seaweed, saltwater and frangipani blossoms — something that can’t be enjoyed from a closed car. It’s not unusual to see a bicyclist pedal by with a parrot on his or her shoulder, or a dog in the bike basket. These are called basket hounds — a breed believed to be indigenous to Key West.

Hemingway House cats

Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote in Key West for most of the 1930s, and descendants of his six-toed cats still live on the grounds of the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum there. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

CREATIVITY RULES. Key West’s creative heritage is a definite part of its charm. Known as a haven and inspiration for writers since Ernest Hemingway’s nearly 10-year residence in the 1930s, the island is home to scores of renowned authors — including several Pulitzer Prize winners. An annual literary seminar, yearly celebrations saluting Hemingway and Tennessee Williams, writers’ groups and a couple of world-class local bookstores all testify to the island’s affection for authors.

NO PANTYHOSE. Though parts of Key West resemble a New England fishing village, with its gingerbread-trimmed Victorian houses and tidy picket fences, the laid-back atmosphere bespeaks its Caribbean roots. Local business owners rarely wear socks on the island — let alone ties — and some don’t even wear shoes. The typical female resident shudders at the thought of struggling into pantyhose.

PEOPLE GET ALONG. Key West has a warm, welcoming atmosphere that probably stems from its patchwork heritage. Early settlers included Cuban cigarmakers, New England shipbuilders, Bahamian salvagers and fishermen, Navy personnel, southern merchants and likely even a few wandering pirates. The current population ranges from recovering hippies and people fleeing the “real world” (see above) to émigrés from virtually all over the world. Despite their outward differences, they generally get along just fine.

Mel Fisher shipwreck salvager Key West

Legendary shipwreck salvager Mel Fisher displays treasures and artifacts from his undersea discoveries in the waters off Key West. Even after his death, Mel’s legacy continues to grow. (Photo courtesy of Mel Fisher’s Treasures)

THE WORLD’S LONGEST STREET. Many of the most interesting art galleries, shops and restaurants are located on Duval Street, Key West’s fabled main street. Duval has been called “the longest street in the world” because it stretches from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean. People who stroll the street can find everything from fine jewelry and quirky souvenirs to tapas, cigars and sinfully good tropical drinks in its colorful establishments.

OCCUPATIONAL HAZARDS? NOT LIKELY! In Key West, it’s perfectly acceptable to state your occupation as “treasure hunter,” “poet,” “drag queen,” “street performer” or all of the above — without eliciting laughter, a disbelieving stare or even raised eyebrows. I can’t think of any other place in the world where that’s true.

No, Key West is NOT normal. A bastion of lovely lunacy, it’s separated from mainland Florida by 42 bridges, more than 100 miles … and an attitudinal shift that must be experienced to be truly understood.

So what’s the best thing to tell curious “real world” friends about Key West? To head south to the offbeat island, of course, and discover it for themselves!

]]>
Expect High-Heeled Hijinks at Wacky Key West Competition https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/high-heeled-hijinks-are-expected-at-wacky-key-west-competition/ Wed, 23 Mar 2022 13:19:58 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=22827

Are you ready for some springtime fun in the Florida Keys? If so, there’s an event coming up in April that should “put that spring back in your step.” It includes local residents and visitors alike who become “female impersonators” for the afternoon. The flamboyant group of “dragsters” will gather on Key West’s Duval Street for a playful parody of an auto race, swapping high-speed cars for high-heeled shoes and drag apparel while sprinting along an improvised racetrack on Saturday, April 16.

Key West

Costumes, wigs, makeup and towering heels are a must for entrants in the quirky drag race. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The offbeat Conch Republic Drag Race will be staged in the 700 block of Duval, the appropriately nicknamed “main drag” at the heart of our island’s LGBTQ entertainment district.

Presented by the Petronia St. Neighborhood Association and headquartered outside the LGBTQ hotspot Bourbon St. Pub, the zany race will start with a test run at 2 p.m., followed by qualifying heats and finals, and (last but not least) the awards ceremony. Wouldn’t the coveted first-place trophy be a fabulous Key West souvenir to take home?

The traditional auto-racing atmosphere will be spoofed by its uber-creative organizers dressed as “pit crew” with checkered flags, while a local DJ blares the roar of revving engines.

The event’s main attraction, however, is the female impersonators (a.k.a. drag queens) competing in pancake makeup, extravagant wigs and race-mandated high-heeled footwear. They’ll attempt to dash down the pavement faster than their rivals while trying to avoid wipeouts, twisted heels, and the dreaded delay of wardrobe repairs.

The racers must navigate an obstacle course of tires and various other street hazards (which may include a random lost wig or two) as spectators cheer for their favorites. The “dragsters” also get a diva-style ride along Duval Street in shopping carts transformed into “hot rods” propelled by hunky local male dancers.

Race registration is free for all contestants willing to don the required towering heels and eccentric drag attire. If you don’t have any “drag wear” on hand, have no fear. Just put in a request via the “coconut telegraph” while you’re out and about in the Pink Triangle, and you’ll be surprised at the offers of assistance you will receive.

Key West drag race

A hapless competitor is pushed in a souped-up shopping cart during a past Conch Republic Drag Race. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

What IS the Pink Triangle? Centered around the 700 and 800 blocks of the iconic Duval Street, it features a cluster of popular LGBTQ bars, entertainment clubs and stores. The area is also home to four permanent rainbow crosswalks that the city installed in May 2015.

(BTW, another great resource for some “women’s wear” is the Key West Salvation Army thrift store, located at 1924 Flagler Ave. You can find a “drag appropriate” outfit, help out a worthy charity and not have to break the bank.)

The drag challenge is part of Key West’s 40th annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration that takes place April 15-24. The festival commemorates the Florida Keys’ symbolic 1982 secession from the United States (believe me, it’s a long story!) and the formation of the independent republic.

Organizers describe this year’s celebration as 40-plus unique, colorful and “somewhat historical” events, packed into 10 fun-filled days. Among its highlights (and what I like to refer to as “only in the Keys events”) are a ceremony commemorating the secession, a lighthearted sea battle featuring tall ships, the so-called “World’s Longest Parade” that proceeds along Duval Street from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, and a “Conch Crawl & Pup Stroll” benefiting the Florida Keys SPCA.

So what are you waiting for? Head down to Key West for some springtime sun and fun!

Click here to subscribe to the Florida Keys & Key West’s LGBTQ travel blog.

]]>
Key West Locals Become ‘Strange Bedfellows’ for Charity https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/key-west-locals-become-strange-bedfellows-for-charity/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 15:50:32 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=22782

Please set your alarm clocks for early afternoon April 23, when Key West’s 40th annual Conch Republic Blue Ribbon Bed Race is scheduled to “blanket” the island’s famed Duval Street. You definitely don’t want to oversleep and miss the zany event that’s billed as “the most fun you can have in bed with your clothes on.”

Not only does it provide hours of entertainment, but the bed race is also a fundraiser for the Sister Season Fund organization, which operates according to a motto that proclaims: “Locals helping locals, here to help when you need it most.”

Key West Bed Race

A team of lovelies races its lavishly decorated entry, attempting to outpace rival “bedfellows.” (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The organization provides financial assistance to hospitality- and tourism-related employees who are temporarily out of work because of illness, accident or a natural disaster. Since the charity’s inception in 2005, it has raised a whopping $1 million and helped thousands of residents who are integral to our island’s workforce.

The wacky competition features decorated beds (and this is Key West, so “decorations” can be offbeat indeed) mounted on wheels, trundling down Duval Street from Olivia to Southard streets. Teams of four runners, sometimes in outlandish costumes, propel each decked-out bed. Meanwhile, one lucky team member is designated to stay aboard (and take a quick snooze?). No motors are allowed, so it’s a “people-powered” competition only.

Event organizers have waived the usual entry fee this year, so both entering and viewing the challenge are free of charge. Check-in time for participants will be at 1 p.m., with a 3 p.m. “wake-up call” for the official start of the races.

So what’s the race procedure? First, there’s a lineup and inspection of the festive beds, followed by a parade of the bedazzled mattress-bearing vehicles. Then the action-packed “bedlam” gets underway, with teams pitted against each other as they pilot their beds in a fierce race to the finish line. Trophies and awards are presented around 6 p.m. for the first-place, second-place and people’s choice winners among others. The post-race awards ceremony is held poolside at one of my favorite watering holes, the Garden Bar behind the Bourbon St. Pub at 724 Duval St.

Key West bed race

“Beach boys” race their bed along Duval Street during a past year’s competition. The event is billed as “the most fun you can have in bed with your clothes on.” (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The race is one of the most popular events of Key West’s annual Conch Republic Independence Celebration. Now in its 40th year, the 10-day festival commemorates the Florida Keys’ symbolic 1982 secession from the United States and formation of the independent island republic. The republic (whose motto is “We seceded where others failed”) was born to combat a U.S. Border Patrol blockade of the Keys that caused miles-long traffic snarls and other mayhem.

The 2022 festival schedule features a ton of fun-filled “only in the Keysevents, and many take place in outdoor venues. So that provides a great reason to enjoy our fabulous April weather, with average daytime temps in the mid 70s to low 80s and low humidity.

The independence celebration runs April 15-24. Among its highlights are a ceremony commemorating the secession on its 40th anniversary, a lighthearted sea battle featuring tall ships, the so-called “World’s Longest Parade” that proceeds along Duval Street from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, a sailing race that recalls the Florida Keys’ maritime heritage and a “Conch Crawl & Pup Stroll” benefiting the Florida Keys SPCA.

Click here to subscribe to the Florida Keys & Key West’s LGBTQ travel blog.

]]>
Delightfully Spooky Experiences Abound in Key West https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/delightfully-spooky-experiences-abound-in-key-west/ Wed, 06 Oct 2021 13:38:36 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=22224

Key West, our two-mile by four-mile subtropical island paradise, is well known as the southernmost city in the continental U.S. However, did you know it has also been dubbed one of the most haunted cities in the country and was originally called Cayo Hueso or “Isle of Bones?”

Heather Graham ghost tour

New York Times bestselling author Heather Graham, a fan of all things spooky,  co-hosted a Key West ghost tour (complete with dolls) during a past visit to the island. (Photo by Carol Tedesco, Mystery Fest Key West)

Want to learn more about the history of Key West’s well-documented spirits and notoriously spooky locations? Well, if you dare to be scared, the island features several year-round ghost tour experiences that are delightfully unnerving.

Launched in 1996, the Key West Ghost Hunt is a nightly walking tour in historic Old Town with an interactive ghost-hunting component. The mysterious journey begins at 301 Whitehead St. (beside a building that was the birthplace of Pan American World Airways in 1927).

The tour features haunted island city locations, but it offers far more than well-researched tales. The guides are experts who show participants how to use ghost-hunting equipment to detect supernatural activities.

That’s not the only excursion that blends views of eerie sites with vignettes from the southernmost city’s history. There’s also the Ghosts & Gravestones of Key West trolley tour featuring a costumed “ghost host” who recounts strange but true stories of tragedies, curses and other unsettling island happenings. The tour concludes with a stop at the haunted Key West Shipwreck Museum.

By the way, Ghosts & Gravestones recently made the USA Today “10Best” Readers’ Choice Awards list for ghost tours!  Congrats to our fearless local “ghost hosts” and their fans.

No exploration of Key West’s otherworldly side would be complete without the Robert the Doll Experience, a Civil War­–era fort ghost hunt at Fort East Martello Museum whose highlight is a lockdown with Robert, famed as “the world’s most haunted doll.” First given to Key West youngster Robert Gene Otto in 1904, the mischievous 40-inch Robert inhabits a glass case at the museum and has become a paranormal icon.

The Robert the Doll Experience was created by author, ghost hunter and historian David Sloan — who penned the fascinating book “Robert The Doll” —  in partnership with the Key West Art & Historical Society that operates the museum.

Robert the Doll Key West

Robert the Doll, Key West’s “paranormal pop star,” greets visitors at Fort East Martello. (Photo courtesy of Key West Art & Historical Society)

Maybe you’d enjoy a spooky theatrical experience on your next visit to Key West? Fear not, because the perfect evening of onstage entertainment awaits. Blending a little bit of horror and a lot of hilarious comedy, the hit musical The Rocky Horror Show is returning to the Waterfront Playhouse Oct.14-29. The live event’s cast will include local talents Christopher Peterson as Frank-n-Furter and Joshua Lawson playing the character of Rocky.

Just a heads-up: the Waterfront currently requires actors, crew, staff and volunteers to be vaccinated and is limiting the size of its audience to 75% to allow everyone the opportunity for social distancing during the show. Masks are required for patrons, as is proof of either vaccination or a recent negative COVID-19 test.

Also, please note that the ghost tours are extremely popular around Halloween, so be sure to make reservations for your next ghostly adventure in advance.

Would you like to up the scare-o-meter on your next stay in Key West? Then you may want to reserve a room at the Artist House (the original home of Robert the Doll). Other supposedly “spirited accommodations” include the adults-only Marrero’s Guest Mansion (FYI, room 18, is where Mrs. Marrero slept in the late 1800s and is said to still visit guests occasionally).

Click here to subscribe to the Florida Keys & Key West’s LGBTQ travel blog.

]]>
Join ‘Puppet Influencer’ Matty Meltzer on a Florida Keys Road Trip https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/join-puppet-influencer-matty-meltzer-on-a-florida-keys-road-trip/ Wed, 21 Jul 2021 15:22:19 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=21921

The Florida Keys Overseas Highway is the only roadway that stretches through the entire Florida Keys, and it’s also Florida’s only federally designated All-American Road. Officially it’s U.S. Highway 1 —  but because it features more than 40 bridges over water, it’s often referred to as the “Highway that Goes to Sea.”

puppet Florida Keys

Matty enjoys oysters and beer during a stop along the Florida Keys Overseas Highway. (Photo by Ashley Serrate, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Yet no matter what you call the road, you’ll find an amazing variety of sights and activities to enjoy as you travel its miles.

To highlight some of the most memorable stops, “special correspondent” Matty Meltzer — who happens to be both an intrepid traveler and a wisecracking puppet (yes, really!) — was commissioned to chronicle his adventures during a road trip through the Keys.

Matty takes visitors on a video journey along the Overseas Highway beginning at Key Largo, the first island community at the top of the Keys. There, he sips cocktails where Humphrey Bogart filmed parts of the classic “Key Largo,” learns how a local nonprofit cares for winged creatures, and embarks on a cruise aboard the original African Queen.

The African Queen, by the way, is the actual vessel that starred in John Huston’s 1951 film “The African Queen” with Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn — and guess who gets to take the wheel?

Traveling on to Islamorada, the puppet correspondent learns firsthand why the region is called the sport fishing capital of the world. He also meets a VERY large lobster (her name is Betsy, and she provides one of the Keys’ best selfie opportunities), checks out Islamorada’s flourishing art scene and discovers the fascinating history of scuba diving.

Once Matty arrives at Marathon, he explores the underwater world from the safety of dry land (because puppets can’t get wet!) and gets up close and personal with some intriguing sea creatures. He also journeys across the iconic Seven Mile Bridge with a stop at the Pigeon Key National Historic Landmark.

Matty ends his Florida Keys Overseas Highway journey in Key West, where he stops for a selfie at the oceanside Southernmost Point marker. (Photo by Ashley Serrate, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Pigeon Key, as Matty finds out, was once a camp for workers building the original Seven Mile Bridge — a pivotal part of the railroad that, in 1912, connected the Florida Keys’ islands to the mainland and to each other for the very first time.

Moving on to Big Pine & the Lower Keys, Matty undertakes a unique kayaking experience and visits one of the island chain’s most acclaimed beaches (with a historic twist). In addition, he tries to spot an elusive and diminutive Key deer — all before heading for his final stop at the continental United States’ southernmost city.

Upon arriving at Key West, Matty views a spectacular sunset from one of the highest points on the island. He also follows in the footsteps of some of the city’s most famous current and former residents — while taking video viewers along to share the fun.

If you’re interested in embarking on a road trip this summer or fall, the Florida Keys Overseas Highway offers all-American adventures that shouldn’t be missed. And there’s no better guide for the journey than Matty Meltzer.

For videos of Matty’s exploration of Key Largo, Islamorada and Marathon, visit the Florida Keys’ YouTube channel. And stay tuned to the island chain’s Facebook, Instagram and Twitter pages for the debut of more videos chronicling the plucky puppet’s road trip.

]]>
Celebrate the ‘Birthday’ of the Quirky Conch Republic https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/celebrate-the-birthday-of-the-quirky-conch-republic/ Wed, 07 Apr 2021 14:46:17 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=20882 Loaves of stale Cuban bread, a governmental border checkpoint, and a request for a billion dollars in foreign aid played major roles in the Florida Keys’ secession from the United States and the formation of the independent Conch Republic.

Conch Republic secession

Former Key West Mayor Dennis Wardlow (left) and other founders of the Conch Republic re-enact the historic secession ceremony during a past year’s “birthday” party for the irreverent republic. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Recognized by international public law as “a sovereign state of mind,” the republic will mark its 39th birthday Friday through Sunday, April 16-25 — with the zany Conch Republic Independence Celebration.

The symbolic secession took place on April 23, 1982. It was prompted by the establishment of a U.S. Border Patrol blockade that virtually stopped traffic on the only road connecting the Keys to mainland Florida.

Federal agents were supposedly searching cars for drugs and illegal immigrants — but their roadblock created a massive multi-mile traffic jam of cars, irritating residents and visitors almost beyond bearing.

Figuring the Keys were being treated as a foreign country, local officials led by then-Mayor Dennis Wardlow protested by staging the secession and proclaiming the island chain the Conch Republic. (Dennis, FYI, became the republic’s first prime minister.)

“When Mayor Dennis Wardlow did that, I’m amazed that he had the nerve,” admitted Craig Cates, also a beloved former mayor of the island city.

After seceding, the band of “patriots” declared war on the United States — a good-natured insurrection that involved pelting a U.S. Navy officer with stale Cuban bread. They then surrendered and requested a billion dollars in foreign aid.

The outrageous strategy worked, gaining worldwide attention and a surprising measure of respect. It was even praised by Bob Graham, Florida’s governor at that time, as “deft and appropriate.”

Florida Keys Conch Republic Logo

Each year, the anniversary of the historic secession and birth of the republic is celebrated with 10 days of lighthearted revelry.

Even more important, the Border Patrol checkpoint vanished as suddenly as it had appeared. And the fame of the Conch Republic, whose motto is We Seceded Where Others Failed, only increased over the years.

Today patriots throughout the Keys fly the royal blue flag of the little “nation,” and commemorate the secession’s anniversary each year with 10 days of lighthearted events.

Fans and friends of the Conch Republic can celebrate this year with activities that range from a pirate adventure and wine tastings to a sunset boat parade featuring floating Tikis, historic schooners and luxury catamarans.

The 2021 festival begins Friday, April 16, with a ceremonial breakfast and the raising of the colors at Key West’s landmark Mallory Square. From then on, everyone can get updates on daily events at the official welcome center at Conch Republic Seafood Company (631 Greene St.).

Of course, organizers are upholding coronavirus safety protocols, including mandatory masking and social distancing, throughout the festival.

Among the scheduled events are a tour and gathering on the historic USCGC Ingham, a floating maritime museum; sailing excursions and other adventures in the clear waters surrounding Key West; a fun and funky “wearable art” fundraising fashion show (with categories for both couture and costumes); a traditional shrimp boil in the Key West Historic Seaport; an artisan market and an “Art of Wine” gallery stroll.

Clinton Curry Key West Conch Shell blowing

The republic’s name comes from the conch shell, used as a signaling device by seafaring settlers. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

There’s even a gourmet dinner and absinthe tasting — set on the grounds of the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum — that commemorates Hemingway’s fondness for the unusual libation.

The festival concludes Sunday, April 25, after an open-air jazz performance and a sailing race that recalls the Florida Keys’ seafaring heritage.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Conch Republic never received the billion dollars in foreign aid that was requested after the 1982 secession (although some optimistic citizens are still waiting for it).

But that hasn’t dampened the irreverent spirit of the “nation,” or lessened the recognition it continues to receive.

And while this year’s festival will be a treat, don’t worry if you can’t join the fun in April — because whenever you do arrive, you’ll be warmly welcomed in the Conch Republic.

]]>
It Was a Dark and Stormy Night https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/it-was-a-dark-and-stormy-night-2/ Wed, 17 Feb 2021 15:12:21 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=20723

Light from a corner streetlight gleamed sullenly on rain-slick village streets. Behind the French doors leading into a typical English parlor, the guests huddled together uneasily. They had expected a pleasant evening’s entertainment, but this was something more. In the next room, a murder had been committed — and the suspects were among them at this very minute. With no constable on duty, it was clearly up to them to solve the dastardly crime.

Dilys Winn, proprietor of Miss Marbles’ Parlour, was the creative spirit behind three best-selling volumes of “Murder Ink.”

If you think scenarios like that happen only in mystery books, you’re (ahem!) dead wrong. In fact, years ago they happened regularly (though generally without rain) in a Key West emporium improbably named Miss Marbles’ Parlour.

These days, Key West is well known as a haven for mystery writers. Current or past residents Tom Corcoran, Michael Haskins, Roberta Isleib (whose pen name is Lucy Burdette) and their creative cohorts produce terrific mysteries set on the island.

Their books (deservedly!) enthrall readers with the quirky crimes of a fictional Key West. And the southernmost city’s mysterious reputation is celebrated most years in June during the entertaining Mystery Fest Key West.

But few are aware that, in the mid-1990s, the island was home to a world-class mystery bookstore.

Located just off Duval Street, Miss Marbles Parlour was the only bookstore in South Florida devoted entirely to mysteries. Named in an offbeat tribute to Agatha Christie’s fictional spinster sleuth, Miss Marple, it was also the setting for interactive “murder evenings” three nights a week.

Most people who wandered into the store, whether for books or the mystery events, quickly realized that proprietress Dilys Winn had an unparalleled knowledge of her stock. And well she might — because years earlier she had opened Murder Ink, the world’s first mystery bookstore, in New York City.

I remember Dilys, a former advertising copywriter, as a bright, funny woman who sometimes adopted a dithery manner reminiscent of Christie’s Miss Marple.

Not long after she fled the advertising world to open Murder Ink, the store became a runaway success. Dilys also arranged the first-ever mystery weekend and produced “Murder Ink,” a New York Times best-selling collection of pieces by the genre’s leading lights, and two follow-up books (one boasting a scratch-n-sniff clue — bitter almonds, of course).

Her activities quickly spawned a score of imitators. By the time she relocated to Key West for family reasons, there were about 60 mystery bookstores in the U.S. But I suspect none of them had the offbeat charm of Miss Marbles’ Parlour, the southernmost such emporium in the continental United States.

Key West Cemetery

Dilys was intrigued by Key West’s historic cemetery during her years on the island. (Photo by Carol Tedesco)

Since I’m a mystery addict, it didn’t take me long to wander into Dilys’ domain. Its main room was intimate and welcoming, with bookshelves lining the walls — filled with volumes by classic and contemporary mystery writers like Joan Hess, Agatha Christie, Rex Stout and Sara Paretsky.

Scattered about the room were cheerfully unmatched tables and chairs. A fascinating nook contained a ramshackle church pew, patchwork pillows, vintage tapestry knitting bags, chests from India and Morocco, and a gigantic brass lamp with an opulent feather shade.

Chatting comfortably with Dilys (as nearly every customer wound up doing), you’d never know she was a legendary figure in the mystery world. As well as suggesting books that matched each reader’s interests, she enjoyed talking about the island that had become her home.

“What I like about Key West is that it’s not Floridian — it’s Caribbean,” she told me once. “I love going to Blue Heaven for breakfast. I sit out at a table with roosters pecking at my feet, and I write.

“I am also quite taken with the cemetery,” she added, her professional instincts rising to the fore.

Unfortunately, Dilys later departed and, despite Key West’s lively literary character and flourishing mystery scene, Miss Marbles’ Parlour is long gone.

But when I walk past a certain address just off Duval, I still recall the mystery events when local actors depicted suspects, an eerie murder room contained clues, audience members competed to find out “whodunit” — and despite Key West’s balmy evenings and blazing sunsets, it was always “a dark and stormy night.”

]]>