History – Keys Voices | The Florida Keys & Key West Blog https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices Wed, 25 Jan 2023 19:28:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 Keys’ Heritage Takes Center Stage in PBS Documentary and Eclectic Events https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/keys-heritage-takes-center-stage-in-pbs-documentary-and-eclectic-events/ Wed, 25 Jan 2023 15:50:51 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23751

Whether you’re pining for a Keys vacation but can’t get away quite yet, or are prepping for an upcoming trip to the island chain, you’ll want to watch “The Florida Keys: 200 Years of Paradise,” slated to debut this spring on Public Broadcasting Service channels across the U.S.

Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad

The Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad, completed in 1912, carried passengers from mainland Florida throughout the Keys to Key West.

The fascinating 60-minute TV documentary explores the culture and history of the Keys from the early 1800s to the present. It was produced by South Florida PBS for broadcast during the island chain’s bicentennial year — this year — that commemorates the Florida Legislature’s establishment of Monroe County on July 3, 1823.

The program (partially underwritten by the Keys tourism council) takes you on a journey through the region’s dramatic history, seen through the eyes of residents who live and interpret that history every day.

Topics include the Florida Keys’ booms and busts, cultural and artistic expression, sport fishing and community leaders, industries like shipwreck salvage, natural disasters and renewal, environmental conservation and the legacy of Black pioneers.

treasure room Diving Museum Islamorada

The story of Art “Silver Bar” McKee is told in a fascinating exhibit at Islamorada’s History of Diving Museum.

Comments from Keys historians and others introduce viewers to the human side of the island chain’s two centuries of history — giving the story a deeply personal flavor.

“The Florida Keys: 200 Years of Paradise” is to be distributed nationally by American Public Television beginning March 1, and it’s expected to air on some 249 public television stations around the country. So check your local listings for scheduled airtimes to make sure you don’t miss it.

Meanwhile, three events are slated in Key West that showcase different elements of the Keys’ intriguing two-century cultural heritage.

Presidents in Paradise. Descendants of former president Harry S. Truman and five other U.S. commanders in chief will discuss their famous relatives and American bipartisanship Saturday, Feb. 18, at Key West’s Harry S. Truman Little White House.

The Presidential Family Forum is the centerpiece of Presidents Day weekend activities at the 111 Front St. residence — the place where Truman spent 11 working vacations during his 1945-1953 administration. Today the property is Florida’s only presidential museum.

Clifton Truman Daniel portraying President Truman

Actor Clifton Truman Daniel portrays his grandfather, President Harry S. Truman, in the stage production “Give ‘Em Hell, Harry!” in Key West.  The one-man show is a highlight of Presidents Day weekend activities at the Harry S. Truman Little White House. (Photo by Carol Tedesco, Florida Keys News Bureau)

In addition, Clifton Truman Daniel (former President Truman’s oldest grandson) will star as his grandfather in the one-man play “Give ‘Em Hell, Harry!” Sunday and Monday, Feb. 19-20. A seasoned actor and author, Clifton is the first direct descendant to portray a presidential ancestor in a stage production — and this one is absolutely unforgettable.

A Conch-Centric Celebration. Join several dozen other people and attempt to “blow your own horn” in Key West Saturday, March 4, during a celebration of the Florida Keys’ rich history known as the Conch Shell Blowing Contest.

In the 19th century, when Key West’s economy was largely based on salvaging cargoes from sinking ships, seafarers used the conch’s fluted pink-lined shells as signaling devices — blowing piercing blasts to attract attention. Today native-born residents refer to themselves as Conchs and the Florida Keys island chain is often called the Conch Republic.

The “conch honk” challenge is presented each spring by the Old Island Restoration Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the architectural and cultural heritage of Key West. In the lush garden of the island’s Oldest House Museum, 322 Duval St., entrants vie to see who can coax the most impressive sounds from their “instrument.”

Conch Shell Blowing gropu in Key West

Kids and adults competing in a previous Conch Shell Blowing Contest gather for a “group toot” in Key West. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Remembering Tennessee. Internationally renowned playwright Tennessee Williams, who lived in Key West for more than 30 years, once said of his chosen home, “I work everywhere, but I work best here.” Explore his writing and life in the island city during the Tennessee Williams Birthday Celebration, with events scheduled throughout March.

Expected highlights include guided curator tours of the Tennessee Williams Museum, located at 513 Truman Ave. Birthday month activities also include screenings of films based on Williams’ plays, a walking tour of the playwright’s Key West, a lecture and readings, a theater production and a commemoration of the 112th anniversary of Williams’ March 26 birth.

What else is going on in Key West and the Keys over the next few months? Just check here — and then catch the PBS documentary and begin planning your next visit.

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Early Wreckers, Treasure Hunters and Modern Divers Seek Keys Shipwrecks https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/early-wreckers-treasure-hunters-and-modern-divers-seek-keys-shipwrecks/ Wed, 11 Jan 2023 18:58:51 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23717

Ever since the Florida Keys were settled two centuries ago, the island chain has been known for its residents’ adventurous seafaring spirit. Today, that spirit remains among the Keys’ most appealing attributes. And contemporary visitors can find it in museums and attractions, tales of sunken treasure and dive trips to famed shipwreck sites.

Key West Shipwreck Museum

Costumed re-enactors tell the story of the Florida Keys wrecking industry at the Key West Shipwreck Treasure Museum. (Photo courtesy of Historic Tours of America)

Many early settlers in Islamorada and Key West were wreckers — salvaging goods from ships that sank along the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef, which runs parallel to the Keys. While the wreckers’ strict code mandated rescuing crews and passengers first, they also profited from salvaged cargo. In the mid-1800s, wrecking made Key West the wealthiest city per capita in the U.S.

Keys visitors can relive that era at the Upper Keys’ Indian Key Historic State Park, a small island that was once a busy port established by wrecker Jacob Housman in the 1800s, or at the Key West Shipwreck Treasure Museum, featuring re-enactors and salvaged artifacts.

A century earlier, fleets of Spanish galleons regularly sailed past the Keys carrying goods and treasures from the New World back to Spain. Many sank in the area, including 13 ships from Spain’s 1733 fleet.

Among the galleons was La Capitana, the flagship of the 1733 fleet, which sank off the Upper Keys. In the late 1930s, pioneering diver Art McKee began salvaging the vessel’s remains — recovering cannons, silver and gold coins, weapons, navigational instruments and silver bars.

Treasure exhibit Islamorada Florida Keys

The History of Diving Museum in Islamorada contains a fascinating exhibit on Art McKee, called the father of modern treasure diving, and his discoveries in Upper Keys waters.

Dubbed the father of modern treasure diving, McKee also uncovered the sites of the Infante, Herrera, Chaves, San Pedro and San José. His exploits are chronicled in a remarkable exhibit at the Florida Keys History of Diving Museum in Islamorada.

The Keys’ most famous wreck is immortalized at Key West’s Mel Fisher Maritime Museum. The museum showcases artifacts and treasures from the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha, lost in a 1622 hurricane and discovered off Key West in 1985 by shipwreck salvager Mel Fisher. Items on display include gold chains, cannons, navigational instruments, coins and heavy silver bars.

Today’s adventurers can indulge their own seafaring spirit by diving the Keys’ Shipwreck Heritage Trail. Featuring nine wreck sites stretching from Key Largo to Key West, the trail was established by the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary to spotlight the island chain’s rich maritime history.

Its wrecks range from McKee’s San Pedro to modern cargo and military ships and artificial reefs. Among them is the Thunderbolt, intentionally sunk in 1986 some 4 miles south of Marathon in 120 feet of water.

Spiegel Grove fish Florida Keys artificial reef

Fish swim around a coral-encrusted gun turret on the artificial reef Spiegel Grove, lying off Key Largo in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, 20 years after the ship’s intentional sinking. (Photo by Frazier Nivens, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Three other significant vessels also beckon Keys divers. The 510-foot Spiegel Grove, the third-largest ship ever intentionally sunk to create a new reef, is positioned about 6 miles off Key Largo in 130 feet of water. It has attracted divers, fish and other marine life since its 2002 sinking.

The 210-foot freighter Adolphus Busch Senior lies in Lower Keys waters approximately 5 miles southwest of Big Pine Key. Divers have been exploring the artificial reef since it was sunk in 1998.

The second-largest vessel ever to be sunk as an artificial reef is the 523-foot General Hoyt S. Vandenberg, scuttled in 2009 about 7 miles off Key West. Its hull rests on sand at depths averaging 145 feet, but its superstructure rises to about 45 feet below the surface.

Only a few ships that sank in Florida Keys waters carried gold or other rich cargoes. But from Spanish galleons to modern-day artificial reefs, they all offer treasured adventures for divers.

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Key West’s 58-Year-Old Tournament Promotes Fishery and Fun https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/key-wests-58-year-old-tournament-promotes-fishery-and-fun/ Wed, 09 Nov 2022 17:24:13 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23576

More than half a century ago, Captain Gainey Maxwell conceived a way to encourage people to visit and fish Florida Keys waters — and then come back to do it again. He called it the Key West Fishing Tournament.

The captain, who passed away several years ago after a life rich in experience, had an impressive set of credentials by the time he founded the tournament in 1965. A Navy veteran who ran fishing boats while he served, he subsequently skippered the Lookout III, a 50-footer with two staterooms for overnight trips.

Captain Gainey Maxwell Key West Navy veteran

Navy veteran and charter boat skipper Captain Gainey Maxwell founded the Key West Fishing Tournament in 1965.

He formatted the tournament in part to showcase the incredible variety of species awaiting anglers in Keys waters.

“I started it to get people interested in coming back and catching different fish,” Captain Gainey said during a 2015 interview. “We’d go fish over wrecks or in shallow water just to change and get different kinds of fish.

“The main thing is just to enjoy it and have fun doing it,” he added.

Today, an impressive 46 backcountry and offshore species are targeted during the free-entry tournament’s eight-month span. The 2023 challenge begins Dec. 1, 2022, and continues through July 31, 2023.

With divisions for men, women, junior anglers ages 10 to 15 and Pee Wees under 10 years old, the event provides a test of skill for seasoned anglers while developing newcomers’ interest in the sport.

It’s also known for motivating parents to introduce their favorite on-the-water activity to their kids. Family members from several generations sometimes compete together, bonding over the shared pursuit.

Among the most motivated young anglers is Miami’s Julia Bernstein. Fishing in the Pee Wee division in 2021, when she was 10 years old, she eclipsed her competitors to earn the division’s Master Angler award — for achievements including a remarkable 104 releases. Her catches included a 23.8-pound Jack Crevalle on 30-pound line that earned a tournament weight record, a 24.8-pound barracuda on 20-pound line that earned divisional “heaviest fish” honors, four other “heaviest fish” winners and three division leaders.

angler with kingfish Key West Fishing Tournament

Master Angler Rory Santana, shown here with a 36.4-pound kingfish caught on fly, released a remarkable 840 fish during the 2022 Key West Fishing Tournament.

Julia continued her winning streak in the 2022 tournament, then competing in the junior division and earning the division’s out-of-county Master Angler designation with accomplishments that included 41 releases. Notable among them was a 20-pound permit caught on 12-pound line.

In the 2023 challenge as in past years, anglers that post the heaviest catch of each of 33 species earn recognition and trophies. Six different line classes and three artificial casting categories further heighten the competition.

Other awards recognize the most releases of barracuda, blue marlin, bonefish, dolphin fish, permit, sailfish and tarpon. In keeping with the Keys’ eco-conscious ethic to protect the fishery, the tournament strongly encourages the release of game fish and will not recognize any killed sailfish, marlin, spearfish, tarpon, redfish, warsaw grouper or shark for award purposes.

The respected tournament draws at least a thousand entries each year, and entrants can fish from a boat, bridge or land. Visiting and resident fishing aficionados can enter their catches at a tournament weigh station in the Lower Keys or Key West — OR they can enter by submitting photos of their fish at this link.

All participants receive certificates noting their catches and qualify for a variety of awards, including the coveted Master Angler titles.

Now celebrating its 58th anniversary, the Key West Fishing Tournament still adheres to the principles and purpose that Gainey Maxwell established for it in 1965.

“Gainey Maxwell had a vision to organize a tournament to promote the diverse sportfishing in the Keys,” said current tournament director Doris Harris. “Now, more than 50 years later, the event upholds his goal of showcasing the Keys fishery and providing a positive angling experience.”

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Explore Heritage, Culture and Nature in Marathon https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/explore-heritage-culture-and-nature-in-marathon/ Wed, 21 Sep 2022 16:06:46 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23441

The community of Marathon, located in the Middle Florida Keys, features wonderful wildlife rehabilitation facilities, a lively performance theater and a variety of cozy inns, luxury resorts, waterside vacation homes, RV parks, marinas and casual dining emporiums.

Crane Point Florida Keys trail

Crane Point Hammock, a unique historic and horticultural site, contains trees and plants found nowhere else in the United States. (Photo courtesy of Crane Point Hammock Museum & Nature Trail)

When you visit the Middle Keys, you’ll also find creative spaces, natural attractions, scenic parks, trails, sightseeing spots and historic sites that make for an appealing blend of heritage, culture and nature. For example …

Crane Point Hammock Museum & Nature Trail. Recently listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this 63.5-acre tract at 5550 Overseas Highway (mile marker 50.5) is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Florida Keys — it even contains evidence of prehistoric Indian artifacts, and once was the site of a Bahamian village. The attraction’s on-site Adderly House, built in 1904 as a classic Bahamian-style home, is the oldest Keys house outside of Key West (and it’s listed on the National Register too).

Also on-site stands a bright-red Florida East Coast Railway train car, located at the site of Marathon’s original train station, and the Crane House that dates back to 1954. The Crane House, renovated in late 2021, is the Keys’ first venue outside of Key West to earn the Historic Florida Keys Foundation star designation. Surrounding the Museum of Natural History of the Florida Keys and the Florida Keys Children’s Museum are a kayak launch, shaded nature trails and natural habitat for birds and butterflies. Ask about the completely unique “fish pedicure” — you’ll be glad you did!

Marathon Wild Bird Center Florida Keys

At Marathon Wild Bird Center, volunteers and local veterinarians have rescued or protected more than 22,000 wild birds such as hawks, ospreys, spoonbills and egrets. Injured birds are nursed back to health and released.

Marathon Wild Bird Center. Within Crane Point’s captivating flora is the small facility whose volunteers and local veterinarians have rescued or protected an amazing 22,000-plus wild birds such as hawks, ospreys, spoonbills and egrets. Injured birds are nursed back to health and released. Visitors not only help this very worthy center by exploring, but also support efforts through donating medical supplies including bandages and tapes, bird carriers, fresh fish and bird food (as well as money).

Marathon Community Theatre. Started as a small community group in 1944, the theater has grown to perform many shows each year — all spotlighting a talented group of local residents. Comedies, musicals, dramatic presentations and readings are offered at the popular spot, with most productions staged between October and April (“The Rocky Horror Show” debuts Oct. 27). The theater is located at 5101 Overseas Highway, mile marker 49.5 oceanside.

Old Seven Mile BridgeEnjoy one of the Middle Keys’ most iconic experiences: cycle, walk, run, rollerblade, view marine life and watch sunrises and sunsets along a 2.2-mile section of the famed Old Seven Mile Bridge. The venerable old bridge, originally the centerpiece of the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad that was completed in 1912, parallels a contemporary bridge that’s part of the Keys’ Overseas Highway. Nicknamed “Old Seven,” the oft-photographed 2.2-mile span reopened to pedestrian recreation in January 2022 after a multiyear restoration. Essentially a linear park, it’s the gateway to historic Pigeon Key.

Pigeon Key Museum Florida Keys

Pigeon Key visitors can explore an intriguing museum that chronicles the island’s history. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Pigeon Key. Lying beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge at mile marker 44.8, Pigeon Key formerly served as a camp for laborers constructing the iconic bridge. The tiny island now features a museum, offers opportunities to picnic and snorkel, and hosts a marine science research program for school-age children. Daily tours are available. Reach Pigeon Key by walking or bicycling the Old Seven Mile Bridge, or by riding the recently launched visitor tram designed to resemble a train.

Shady Palm Art Gallery & Photography. Savor a leisurely exploration of this one-stop-shop emporium located at 2888 Overseas Highway. Owners Barry and Lori Gaukel feature only Keys artists, artisans and creative minds in the spacious gallery and gift shop. Each of over 50 local artists creates bold, unique pieces that include paintings, prints, jewelry, pottery, woodcarving, coconut art and much more. Shady Palm is the perfect place to purchase a memento to remember your Middle Keys visit.

Want to discover more enticing attractions in Marathon and the Middle Keys? Just click here and then start planning your visit!

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The Day Queen Elizabeth Visited the Florida Keys https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/the-day-queen-elizabeth-visited-the-florida-keys/ Wed, 14 Sep 2022 17:00:00 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23425

On May 18, 1991, Queen Elizabeth II paid a visit to the Florida Keys. Thirty-one years later, as the world mourns the British monarch’s death, it seems only fitting to recall that day — and Her Majesty’s encounter with the unofficial queen of the island chain.

Queen Elizabeth II Florida Keys

National Park Service ranger Matt Fagan (left) tours Queen Elizabeth II (center) and Prince Philip (right) around Fort Jefferson iin Dry Tortugas National Park in the Florida Keys. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip visited Fort Jefferson in Dry Tortugas National Park, a remote enclave of seven tiny islands that lies 70 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico.

They traveled aboard the magnificent Royal Yacht Britannia, making the Tortugas a brief stopover on the way to New Orleans after spending several days in Miami. As is typical of the laid-back Keys, the pomp and circumstance at Fort Jefferson was significantly more low-key than it was in Miami.

Queen Elizabeth and her party arrived via tenders from the Britannia, which had anchored just off Fort Jefferson. On Garden Key, the Tortugas’ largest island and home of the massive Civil War-era fort, she was greeted by the Keys’ “queen”: Wilhelmina Harvey, the first woman mayor of the island chain’s Monroe County, a beloved 79-year-old grande dame.

And I was there to witness and photograph the historic moment.

Wilhelmina, who was born in Key West (also known as the southernmost city in the continental U.S.), was renowned for her candid charm. She made the 70-mile trip to the Tortugas via helicopter — the first time, she admitted, that she had ever flown in one.

Queen Elizabeth yacht tender Florida Keys

The royal couple traveled to and from Fort Jefferson in a tender from the Royal Yacht Britannia. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

About an hour before Queen Elizabeth’s arrival, Wilhelmina and the small contingent of assembled media (including me) were given a rather strict briefing about how the royal couple must be greeted. We media types were absolutely forbidden to shout or ask the queen to turn one way or another for a better photo or video angle. And we couldn’t move an inch from our designated spots.

When the great the moment arrived, the tenders carrying the queen and her party tied up to the Fort Jefferson dock and the royal couple stepped ashore.

Wilhelmina was wearing a tropical white dress with a red shawl and a wide-brimmed hat to help fend off the subtropical sun. She welcomed Her Majesty to the Keys by presenting her with a conch shell — the traditional symbol of the island chain.

My goal was to get a picture of the two of them together with the shell so we could see both faces. But alas, the queen faced Wilhelmina during the entire presentation and never turned.

National Park Service ranger Matt Fagan spent about 45 minutes escorting Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip around Fort Jefferson. He hit all the highlights including the fort’s distinction that, despite its massive size and role as a critical defense point in controlling access to the Gulf of Mexico, it had never been fired upon.

Queen Elizabeth yacht

The Brittania, Britain’s royal yacht, lies off Dry Tortugas National Park. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The royal party also saw the cell where an American physician was imprisoned for supposedly conspiring with John Wilkes Booth to assassinate U.S. President Abraham Lincoln in 1865. Four years afterward, Dr. Samuel Mudd was pardoned by President Andrew Johnson — but despite repeated efforts by Mudd’s descendants, his conviction was never expunged. His exact role in Lincoln’s murder, if any, is still officially unknown.

As Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip made their way back to the tenders to return to the royal yacht, a group of campers gathered on the Fort Jefferson beach. They quietly gave the “royal wave” as the tenders departed for the Britannia.

 As far as I know, the British monarch never publicly commented on her Florida Keys visit. But whenever I saw Wilhelmina, she stated that the opportunity to meet Queen Elizabeth was “one of the most beautiful things that ever happened in my life.”

Wilhelmina died in May 2005 at age 93, while Queen Elizabeth passed away Sept. 8, 2022, at age 96 — after a remarkable 70 years on the throne. And though both the British queen and the unofficial queen of the Florida Keys are gone, their meeting in the Dry Tortugas remains an unforgettable moment in Keys history.

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Mel Fisher Days Marks 1622 Spanish Galleon’s Shipwreck Anniversary https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/mel-fisher-days-marks-1622-spanish-galleons-shipwreck-anniversary/ Wed, 24 Aug 2022 15:07:51 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23369

Whether you’re a shipwreck fan, treasure seeker or history buff — or simply enjoy fascinating tales of real-life adventure — you should definitely be in Key West Sept. 2-6.

Why? To help commemorate the 400th anniversary of the sinking of the Spanish treasure galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha.

Jimmy Buffett Mel Fisher Atocha treasure

One day after the July 20, 1985, discovery of the Atocha “main pile,” singer-songwriter Jimmy Buffet and treasure hunter Mel Fisher sit perched on a throne of silver bars surrounded by family and “golden crew” members. (Photo by Pat Clyne)

The Atocha sank during a September 1622 hurricane in the Florida Straits southwest of Key West, where it remained until its discovery by shipwreck salvor Mel Fisher and his crew in 1985.

They uncovered the priceless “main pile” of the Atocha’s treasure and artifacts after an exhaustive 16-year search. Underwater archaeologists and divers recovered quantities of gold and silver coins and bars, contraband emeralds, religious and secular jewelry, cannons and other weapons, pottery and rare navigational instruments from the Atocha site.

The discovery was internationally hailed as the shipwreck find of the 20th century. The salvage team, which included Mel’s wife Deo and their children, was nicknamed the “golden crew.”

In September 2022, history and shipwreck buffs can mark the historic anniversary with cultural and adventure-filled events featuring members of the Fisher family and the fabled crew.

The Sept. 2-6 commemoration, called Mel Fisher Days, takes place at a number of Key West locations. It honors the legacy of Mel Fisher as well as the Atocha and other vessels from Spain’s 1622 fleet that were lost in the Florida Straits.

treasure hunters Mel and Deo Fisher Florida Keys

Deo and Mel Fisher, c. 1980, adorned with lengths of gold chain recovered from the 1622 Fleet shipwreck Santa Margarita, which Fisher and his team discovered five years before the Atocha. (Photo by Don Kincaid)

An opening ceremony and Atocha-themed film screening are set for 7 p.m. Friday, Sept. 2, at Key West’s Tropic Cinema. Events are to be guided by Kim Fisher and Taffi Fisher Abt, son and daughter of the late Mel and Deo, who are carrying on the family’s shipwreck searches and heritage.

On Saturday, dive and treasure enthusiasts can meet members of the “golden crew” during a late afternoon gathering and charity fundraiser at the Schooner Wharf Bar, a waterfront watering hole and traditional hangout for the Fisher team.

(Charity fundraising, by the way, is a vital part of Mel Fisher Days. To date, the annual celebration has raised nearly $175,000 for organizations devoted to children and their health and wellbeing.)

Highlights of the Schooner Wharf gathering include the debut and book signing of “Today’s the Day — The Mel Fisher Story” by veteran Florida Keys journalist Wendy Tucker, who helped tell the world about the Atocha find. The presentation of the prestigious Mel Fisher Lifetime Achievement Award, plus auctions, games and contests round out the attractions.

Mel Fisher Days’ centerpiece is Sunday’s daylong 1622 Fleet 400th Anniversary Speakers Symposium at the Key West Marriott Beachside Hotel. Noted experts on the Atocha and 1622 fleet will share insights on topics including the fleet’s storied history, marine archaeology, shipwreck artifact conservation and the latest research on the tens of thousands of silver coins recovered from the Atocha. And attendees won’t want to miss Taffi Fisher Abt’s personal presentation titled “Living the Dream.”

Taffi and Kim Fisher Mel Fisher Days

Each Mel’s son Kim (right) and daughter Taffi spearhead Mel Fisher Days in their father’s honor. (Photo courtesy of Mel Fisher’s Treasures)

That evening, ticket holders can join the Fisher family and the symposium speakers for a banquet on the hotel beach.

Events Monday, Sept. 5, include an all-day Fisher family meet-and-greet and book signing at Mel Fisher’s Shipwreck Treasures on Duval Street. Featured author Wendy Tucker will be joined by nearly a dozen other treasure-related authors during the day — including internationally acclaimed shipwreck coin expert Carol Tedesco.

The commemoration concludes Tuesday, Sept. 6, after the unveiling and installation of a memorial plaque at Key West’s Mallory Square. The plaque salutes the spirit of adventure displayed by Mel Fisher and his “golden crew,” and honors those who died when the 1622 vessels sank exactly four centuries before.

Don’t miss the opportunity to mark the 400th anniversary of an iconic moment in Key West history — and pay tribute to one of the island’s legendary characters. For a complete schedule of Mel Fisher Days events, click here.

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Hemingway Days Celebrates Legendary Writer’s Key West Life https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/hemingway-days-celebrates-legendary-writers-key-west-life/ Wed, 20 Jul 2022 14:46:50 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23277

For nearly a century, Key West has been a haven and an inspiration for some of the United States’ most influential writers. But none was more influential than Ernest Hemingway, who lived and wrote on the island for most of the 1930s.

Hemingway with fish

Ernest Hemingway (right) was a passionate angler during his Key West years. (Photo courtesy of the Key West Art & Historical Society)

Fans of adventurous living and masterful writing can celebrate Hemingway’s legacy Tuesday through Sunday, July 19-24. Each year, the Hemingway Days festival salutes the author’s vigorous Key West lifestyle, sporting pursuits and extraordinary creative talent.

As many as 150 burly, bearded contestants are expected to compete in the annual Hemingway® Look-Alike Contest at Sloppy Joe’s Bar. So expect to see dozens of “Ernests” hanging out at the historic saloon where Hemingway often enjoyed cocktails with cohorts — and whose original owner was his good friend and fishing companion, Joe Russell.

The contest’s preliminary rounds are set for 6:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday, July 21 and 22, with finalists facing off at 6:30 p.m. Saturday, July 23.

Held in conjunction with the festival is the Lorian Hemingway Short Story Competition coordinated by Ernest’s granddaughter, author Lorian Hemingway. Each year the contest awards $2,500 to emerging writers, with the winners to be announced — and the top story given its first public reading — at 6 p.m. Wednesday, July 20, at Key West’s Monroe County Public Library.

The announcement will be paired with another can’t-miss event for fans of fine writing: the acclaimed Key West Poetry Guild’s annual showcase of Hemingway’s little-known poetry and their own work.

Ernest Hemingway bronze Key West

This life-size bronze sculpture of Ernest Hemingway can be seen during the “Hemingway Collection” museum days at Key West’s Custom House Museum. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The festival also features two “museum days” where visitors can view a unique Hemingway exhibit at Key West’s Custom House Museum — plus 59 original pen-and-ink drawings by marine wildlife artist Guy Harvey that provide a visual narrative to the author’s classic novel, “The Old Man and the Sea.”

Speaking of the sea, anglers can share “Papa’s” passion for deep-sea fishing during the Perry Hotel & Marina Key West Marlin Tournament, set for Wednesday through Saturday, July 20-23. Participants can pursue marlin and spearfish, sailfish, tuna, dolphin fish and wahoo while competing for a whopping $50,000 in guaranteed cash prizes.

Among other festival attractions are Sloppy Joe’s offbeat “Running of the Bulls” (spoiler alert: it’s more of a stroll than a run, and it features scores of Hemingways and several manmade bulls), a commemoration (with cake!) on the 123rd anniversary of Hemingway’s July 21 birth, a street fair along the Duval Street blocks he once walked, and a 5k run and paddleboard race that recall his sporting lifestyle.

Ernest Hemingway lived in Key West from 1931 until late 1939, penning literary classics including “For Whom the Bell Tolls” and “To Have and Have Not” — the latter set primarily in the island city he called home. So it’s no surprise that several Key West sites are associated with his presence.

The best-known is the Spanish colonial villa at 907 Whitehead St. where he lived with his second wife Pauline. Now a registered National Historic Landmark, it’s open to the public as the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum. Its notable features include the island’s first swimming pool and a colony of cats — many of them six-toed — that are descended, so the story goes, from a sea captain’s feline given to the author.

Hemingway look-alike winner Key West

Zach Taylor, center, surrounded by past winners of the Hemingway Look-Alike Contest, beams as he hoists a bust of Ernest Hemingway after winning the 2021 contest at Sloppy Joe’s Bar in Key West. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Hemingway wrote many of his best-known works in the second-story studio that adjoins the Whitehead Street house. The home that nurtured the legendary writer’s talent is well worth a visit, and guided tours are offered daily.

Many Hemingway fans also seek out the onetime Key West Arena, located at the corner of Thomas and Petronia streets in Bahama Village, the site of open-air neighborhood boxing matches that Hemingway sometimes refereed. Today the popular Blue Heaven Restaurant, where the food is “Caribbean casual” and the Key lime pie is world-renowned, occupies the former arena site.

Ernest Hemingway might have left Key West in late 1939, but his legacy lingers on. Just ask the Look-Alikes who flock to Sloppy Joe’s, the writers who followed him seeking creative inspiration, or anyone who has ever walked the halls and grounds of his island home.

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History Adds Luster to Quirky and Colorful Key West https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/history-adds-luster-to-quirky-and-colorful-key-west/ Wed, 06 Jul 2022 15:35:07 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23219

Anyone who knows much about Key West is aware that it was once the home of Ernest Hemingway and Tennessee Williams, that Jimmy Buffett created his Margaritaville empire on the island, and that former President Harry Truman ruled the United States from a vacation getaway known today as the Little White House.

The waterfront Afterdeck at Louie’s Backyard is a great place to sip cocktails and watch pooches play at the adjacent Dog Beach. (Photo courtesy of Louie’s Backyard)

But beyond those well-known facts lies a wealth of lesser-known tidbits and tales about the island city that’s located closer to Havana than it is to Miami.

And speaking of Key West’s location, it really IS the southernmost city in the continental United States. It’s 755 miles south of Los Angeles and only 24.5 degrees above the equator.

But “southernmost” isn’t the only moniker the island city has earned. It’s also nicknamed Bone Island. According to local lore, when the Spanish discovered the island they found the landscape littered with bones from the victims of a war between two native tribes. The Spaniards dubbed the place “Cayo Hueso,” which can be loosely translated as (yes, you guessed it!) Bone Island.

Since that early discovery, Key West has grown considerably — not just in population, but also in land mass. Once a diminutive 1,575 acres, it’s now significantly larger. Part of the new acreage was deliberately created in a manmade dredge-and-fill process, but some can be credited to Mother Nature’s unique red mangrove. It seems the mangroves trap sand, leaves, sediment and other debris in their tangled aerial roots, and that natural blend eventually solidifies into new land.

These days, in fact, the distance around Key West is about 12.5 miles. Each June, that circumference becomes a saltwater racecourse for competitors during the annual Swim Around Key West.

Swim Around Key West 2022

Athletes in the annual College of the Florida Keys Swim Around Key West navigate the 12.5-mile distance around the island. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Presented by College of the Florida Keys, the challenge is open to solo swimmers and those in relay teams of two to six, with or without fins — and even solo swimmers using a mermaid tail or monofin.

They navigate past island landmarks such as the Southernmost Point marker and Mallory Square, site of the famed nightly Sunset Celebration, while trying to outpace their rivals.

Speaking of Key West landmarks, the fine old building that houses Bagatelle Restaurant, bedecked with porches and dining decks, was once the home of local fire chief Hiram Fulford. Built in 1890, the gracious home stood next to the public library on Fleming Street until it was transported to its current location at 115 Duval St. Both for its history and cuisine, the place is well worth a visit.

Another home that became a legendary restaurant stands at 700 Waddell St. Now the gourmet Louie’s Backyard, it was once the residence of wrecker James Randall Adams. (The profitable industry of wrecking, or salvaging shipwrecked vessels and their crews and cargoes, helped make 19th-century Key West the wealthiest city per capita in the entire United States.) According to legend, Captain Adams boasted that everything in his gracious Classic Revival house had originally been salvaged from ships that foundered on the offshore reefs.

Dog in bike basket Key West

Bailey stops for a photo op at the Southernmost Point marker before heading to Dog Beach. (Photo by Alyson Crean)

In the early 1970s, the lovely oceanside dwelling was first opened as a restaurant. One of the place’s notable customers was a locally infamous mutt named Ten Speed, whose favorite cocktail was Kahlua and cream.

Next door to Louie’s lies a pocket-sized hideaway beach on the Atlantic that’s dedicated to people and their pooches and, quite reasonably, is called Dog Beach. Around cocktail hour each day, it’s the norm to see tail-wagging dogs and their owners hurrying down the street together — the dogs headed for the beach to meet their canine pals for a rollicking game of coconut chase; and the people making their way to Louie’s cocktail deck, where they can sip island-style libations and watch their pets at play.

Do these small nuggets of knowledge and lore make you want to find out more about quirky and colorful Key West? Then start your exploration by clicking here.

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Exploring the Florida Keys: Three Natural Spots to Experience https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/exploring-the-florida-keys-three-natural-spots-to-experience/ Wed, 15 Jun 2022 13:06:12 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23144

Do you think you’ve seen the best the Florida Keys have to offer? Are you looking for some new open-air natural experiences in the island chain? Here are three of my faves that might pique your interest and help you discover even more about our fascinating history and land-and-water environment.

Key Deer Florida Keys

Seen often along roadsides in Big Pine Key at dawn and dusk, tiny Key deer are protected within the Lower Florida Keys’ National Key Deer Refuge. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

ONE: Venture out to remote Dry Tortugas National Park. Pristine Dry Tortugas National Park encompasses seven small coral-and-sand islands that lie almost 70 miles west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico. You can reach the park — a completely one-of-a-kind natural and historic site — via Key West Seaplane Adventures or the Yankee Freedom III ferry.

The park’s centerpiece is the awe-inspiring Fort Jefferson — one of the largest masonry structures in the entire Western Hemisphere. Construction on it began in 1846, and the massive fort served as a Union military prison for captured deserters and others. Its most famous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Mudd, who was convicted of conspiracy in President Abraham Lincoln’s 1865 assassination (but later pardoned).

After exploring Fort Jefferson (the panoramic view of sea and sky from the top level is absolutely breathtaking), take the time to enjoy some of the incredible snorkeling the park offers. The unspoiled natural site is alive with colorful marine life and rare migratory birds — and being there is truly an experience like no other.

TWO: Observe the flora and fauna at the National Key Deer Refuge. Established in 1957, the refuge protects and preserves habitats for wildlife, including some of the Florida Keys’ most engaging creatures — tiny Key deer. The nature preserve stretches more than 9,200 acres, with lands on Big Pine Key and other islands of the Lower Keys, plus backcountry land and water areas. The amazingly diverse environment includes mangrove forests, freshwater and salt marsh wetlands, pine rockland forests and tropical hardwood hammocks.

The miniature deer are about the size of a large dog and are often seen grazing around Big Pine Key. (FYI, it’s illegal to approach or feed them, even though you might be very tempted.) The refuge is also home to more than 20 other endangered and threatened plant and animal species.

Christ of the Deep Key Largo

The iconic Christ of the Deep statue is one of Key Largo’s most unforgettable dive sites. (Photo by Michael Oliver)

I recommend starting your exploration at the Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuges Nature Center, located on Big Pine near mile marker 30.5. It’s open Wednesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and the staff can offer you a treasure trove of information about the conservation area and all its inhabitants.

THREE: Experience a unique and captivating underwater park. The first undersea park in the United States, Key Largo’s John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, encompasses about 70 nautical square miles. You can observe the park’s abundant wildlife and marine life through recreational and educational experiences that include diving, snorkeling, kayaking and glass-bottom boat tours.

If you’re a diver, don’t miss an exploration of the Key Largo Dry Rocks, where you’ll find the 9-foot-tall bronze Christ of the Deep statue resting in 25 feet of water. During its 57 years beneath the sea, the majestic figure has become one of the most photographed sub-sea sites in the world.

And do check out Pennekamp’s visitor center — the gateway to the park at mile marker 102.5 on the Florida Keys Overseas Highway. Attractions include a 30,000-gallon saltwater aquarium, exhibits and nature videos.

As well as these intriguing natural areas, you’ll find many other attractions in the Florida Keys & Key West. For a preview sure to trigger the “travel gene,” just click here.

Click here to subscribe to the Florida Keys & Key West’s LGBTQ travel blog.

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Celebrate the 20th ‘Sink Anniversary’ of the Keys’ Spiegel Grove Artificial Reef https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/celebrate-the-20th-sink-anniversary-of-the-keys-spiegel-grove-artificial-reef/ Wed, 11 May 2022 16:33:07 +0000 https://fla-keys.com/keysvoices/?p=23002

Divers and ocean enthusiasts are invited to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the sinking of the third-largest vessel ever intentionally scuttled to become an artificial reef — the retired 510-foot Navy Landing Ship Dock Spiegel Grove, which lies 6 miles off Key Largo.

Spiegel Grove above water Florida Keys

Tugboats nudge the retired U.S. Navy ship Spiegel Grove, a 510-foot Landing Ship Dock, into a final anchoring position in May 2002 after it arrived off Key Largo to be sunk as an artificial reef. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Scheduled May 15-17 in the Florida Keys, the celebration includes a planned morning dive on Spiegel Grove Sunday, May 15. During the dive, participants will place a commemorative plaque on the ship’s hull to honor the men who served on the historic vessel.

Qualified divers can make a reservation by contacting Lisa Mongelia, director of Islamorada’s History of Diving Museum, at 305-664-9737 or  director@divingmuseum.org.

The museum, located at mile marker 82.9 bayside in Islamorada, has launched a monthlong pop-up exhibit about Spiegel Grove in its research library — where people can learn about the wreck and its fascinating heritage through May 31.

And on May 17 — the 20th anniversary of the ship’s sinking — audiences can enjoy “Celebrating the Spiegel Grove at 20: A Saga Too Strange Even for Hollywood!” at Key Largo’s Murray Nelson Governmental and Cultural Center at mile marker 102. A multimedia presentation and panel discussion, the evening will feature members of the original “sink team” chronicling the intriguing history of Spiegel Grove.

In fact, the tale of the ship’s journey from the ocean’s surface to the sandy bottom 130 feet below is as compelling as its size — with twists and turns that would be hard to believe even in a Hollywood blockbuster.

The sun sets over the upside-down hull of the Spiegel Grove in May 2002 after it sank prematurely and rolled over. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

On May 17, 2002, as Spiegel Grove underwent final preparations for its planned sinking, it began to rapidly take on water, prematurely sank and rolled over. The team of workers scrambled to safety and mercifully escaped injury, but the ship’s roll left its upside-down bow protruding above the Atlantic Ocean’s surface — where it was quickly deemed a navigational hazard by the U.S. Coast Guard.

The story, however, captured worldwide media attention. Spiegel Grove became a world-renowned artificial reef even before the first recreational diver explored it.

Some three weeks later, on June 10, 2002, a salvage team sank the vessel fully and it came to rest on its starboard side — not the position originally anticipated, but an acceptable alternative. Almost immediately attracting reef fish and marine growth, the enormous ship officially opened to divers June 26, 2002. Underwater enthusiasts flocked to the new artificial reef’s cliff-like hull sprawled across the sandy bottom.

But the Spiegel Grove saga wasn’t over yet. In early July 2005, Hurricane Dennis brushed the Florida Keys with tropical storm-force winds and left an amazing gift for the sport-diving community.

Spiegel Grove underwater off Key Largo

Divers swim on the Spiegel Grove in July 2005, after discovering that the ship had rolled upright, apparently courtesy of waves spawned by Hurricane Dennis off the southeast coast of Cuba. (Photo by Frazier Nivens, Florida Keys News Bureau)

After the storm passed, divers discovered the vessel in an upright position — the position artificial reef project organizers originally intended. According to a meteorologist at the Florida Keys’ National Weather Service office, when the storm was east of Cuba, it generated powerful currents that migrated up the Florida Straits and shifted the massive ship.

Today, the top deck of Spiegel Grove is about 60 feet below the surface of the ocean. The ship is so wide that, on many days, the view of the superstructure fades into a green-blue abyss. On the clearest days, the sandy bottom is visible nearly 130 feet from the surface. Mooring buoys provide convenient, coral-friendly boat tie-offs.

If this incredible tale awakens a craving for Keys waters, then check out another aspect of the celebration: the May 17 kickoff of a “Spiegel Grove 20th Anniversary Dive Trip Giveaway.” The prize includes a three-night Key Largo trip, valued at over $2,500 and including accommodations, to dive the famous wreck.

The contest entry page link will be published in posts on the Florida KeysFacebook page and appear below the bio (@thefloridakeys) on Instagram and Twitter. The trip giveaway entry period begins at 9 a.m. EDT Tuesday, May 17, and continues through 11:59 p.m. EDT Tuesday, May 31.

Want more info about Spiegel Grove and its remarkable journey from ship to artificial reef? Just click here.

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